Los Testigos

Thursday, September 13, 2001

011-22.080 N
063-0.540 W

I had planned on writing earlier in the week, but the events in the US have made anything that I have to say feel minuscule compared to what has occurred. I want to extend my deepest sympathies to everyone who has suffered through this tragedy, and that includes virtually everyone. I can assure you that this has struck very deep, even here in the Caribbean. But in the mind-set that we need to keep life going on, here's an update from the BlueJacket.

Unlike last Tuesday, our American flights down here the previous Tuesday went as planned. I'm very happy to report that the BlueJacket's new paint job looks spectacular. Many, many people wandered by to comment on how great it looked. Spice Island Marine did a wonderful job.

Unfortunately marine systems don't like sitting unused for months at a time. Many systems that were working fine in April ceased to do so during their 5 month lay-up. The generator is having major difficulties and may need to be replaced. The AC powered refrigeration compressor needs to be replaced. The reverse osmosis water maker membrane appears to need to be replaced, but that's not quite a surprise as it had been acting up before leaving. And many other systems had trouble coming out of suspension. The heat, sun, and salt down here do a number on everything. One definition of "cruising" that I've heard is "repairing complex systems in exotic locations." I can relate.

But, after a solid week of working on systems, things came together and we departed on Wednesday night for Los Tostigos, which is a small group of island off the eastern coast of Venezuela. The 80 nautical mile overnight trip here was relatively uneventful, with a handful of squalls and a few close encounters with freighters bound to/from Trinidad. The very strong Equatorial current moves westward through here, making for a quick passage, but I'm not looking forward to the return trip.

Los Testigos has no air or ferry service. Thus the only people who visit are cruisers on their way to/from Margarita Island. The islands are very undeveloped and inhabited by fisherman. The water is impossibly green and filled with tons of fish. You can't clear into customs here, but the "guardacosta" will allow you to stay for a day or two upon checking in.

It's hot, very hot. It's 9:30 PM here and it's still 86 here. The sun bakes down during the day, requiring you to hide from the mid-day sun. But it's an experience of a lifetime. One that keeps building. One that helps me understand life and my relationship with other cultures of the world. It's too bad that more of the world can't share this experience, for if they could, I suspect that the events of this past week wouldn't have occurred. Tomorrow it's on to Margarita and another experience.

-- Geoff
Log ID: 74